Roof Flashing Basics: Valleys, Chimneys, Walls, and More

What Is Roof Flashing?

Roof flashing is the thin metal — and occasionally membrane — detailing installed wherever the roof covering meets a vertical surface, another roof plane, a penetration, or the roof edge. Its single job is to manage water at the places shingles cannot: it takes water that arrives running down a wall, pooling in a valley, or striking a chimney, and returns it to the surface of the roof or the gutter, always lapping downhill, always overlapping the piece below. On a typical house the flashing package includes drip edge along every eave and rake, step flashing woven into every sidewall, apron flashing at headwalls, metal or membrane in every valley, collars around every pipe, a multi-piece assembly at the chimney, and kickout diverters where sidewalls terminate into gutters.

Roof flashing works by geometry rather than sealant. Each piece is positioned so water crossing a joint lands on the next piece down, and so no fastener sits in the path of water that the detail is meant to drain. Sealant appears only as a backup at termination points — a bead above a counter flashing hem, a dab over a nail head — never as the primary barrier. That principle explains nearly every rule in this guide: lapping shingle-fashion, fastening high and concealed, keeping the water path on metal, and treating a caulked joint as a repair, not a construction method.

Where Roof Flashing Lives on the House

Walk the perimeter mentally and every intersection announces itself. The eave takes drip edge under the first course so meltwater and wind-driven rain shed into the gutter instead of wicking back onto the fascia. The rake takes the same metal over the underlayment, because water there runs parallel to the edge rather than onto it. Sidewalls — any wall that runs up the slope — take step flashing course by course, finished with counter flashing or siding. Headwalls — walls the roof runs into from below — take a continuous apron piece. Valleys take open metal or a closed-cut underlayment treatment. Chimneys take the full four-sided assembly. Penetrations take boots and collars. And every place a sidewall stops and the gutter starts takes a kickout. Roof flashing is not one product; it is a family of details, each sized to the geometry it protects.

The Vocabulary Used in This Guide

Base flashing is the piece in direct contact with the roof surface or deck at a joint — the step pieces and the chimney apron are base flashings. Counter flashing covers the top of a base flashing. Step flashing means the individual L-shaped pieces woven into shingle courses at sidewalls. Apron or headwall flashing is the continuous piece at a wall upslope of the roof. Valley flashing is the metal or membrane in a valley. Kickout flashing is the diverter that ends a sidewall run into a gutter. Roof-to-wall flashing is the combined system of step, apron, counter, and kickout at wall intersections. Reglet is the saw-cut slot in masonry that receives counter flashing. A cricket (or saddle) is the small peaked roof built behind a wide chimney. These names are the ones used on the job site, in manufacturer instructions, and in the code — learning them once is enough.

Why Roof Flashing Matters

Roofing research has long found that a large share of residential roof leaks do not start in the field of the shingles — they start at a joint, a penetration, or an edge where water was able to get sideways or underneath. That is why every model building code requires corrosion-resistant flashing at wall intersections, valleys, around chimneys and other penetrations, and at roof edges: the shingle layer is a drainage surface, and roof flashing is the detail work that makes the drainage surface continuous through every interruption.

How Water Actually Attacks a Joint

Water on a roof moves by gravity, by wind pressure, and by capillary action. Gravity is the easy one: water runs downhill, and a flashing piece that laps the wrong way hands it straight to the seam. Wind can drive rain horizontally up a slope or sideways across a valley, which is why edge details extend far enough to catch splashed water and why valley metal is wide rather than narrow. Capillary action is the silent one: water will creep uphill into a gap too small to see, which is why flashing joints are lapped with real overlap — 2 inches minimum on step pieces — rather than butted and sealed. A roof flashing detail that respects all three forces at once is one that overlaps generously, keeps fasteners out of the water path, and terminates into a place the water can continue downhill unobstructed.

The Cost of Getting It Wrong

The failure pattern at a missing or wrong roof flashing detail is consistent: water gets behind the cladding, the sheathing stays wet, rot spreads into framing, and the damage remains invisible until staining shows on an interior ceiling or the wall feels soft. By then the repair typically includes siding removal, sheathing replacement, framing sistering, and sometimes mold remediation — vastly more expensive than the piece of metal that would have diverted the water in the first place. Kickout flashing is the starkest example: a $15 diverter omitted at a sidewall termination has produced rot repairs into the five figures. Chimney cricket neglect runs a similar course behind wide stacks. The economics of roof flashing are lopsided in the same direction every time — detail first, always.

What the Codes Require

The International Residential Code places flashing under Section R903, which requires corrosion-resistant roofing flashing to be installed in a manner that prevents water from entering the roof wall or creating moisture damage — at intersections with vertical walls, at chimneys and roof penetrations, at valleys, and at intersections of roof surfaces and walls. Specific subsections govern step flashing at sidewalls, kickout diversion at the eave-to-wall intersection, valley treatments, and drip edge at eaves and rakes; a separate section requires a cricket behind chimneys and other obstructions more than 30 inches across the slope. Local codes adopt these sections with or without amendment, and inspectors check the visible details at framing and pre-cover stages. Designing roof flashing to the code baseline is the minimum; designing it to the trade practices in this guide is how the details stay watertight for decades.

Roof Flashing Types

Every roof flashing types chart eventually converges on the same family, because the family follows the geometry of the house. The table below lists each type with where it goes, what it stops, the usual material, and the typical service life. The sections after it take the most failure-prone members — step, counter, chimney, valley, kickout — in detail.

Two Worlds: Steep-Slope Metal and Low-Slope Membrane

The table above describes the steep-slope residential world — asphalt shingles, metal shingles, cedar, slate — where formed sheet metal handles every joint. Low-slope roofs run a different playbook: base flashings become membrane strips turned up the wall 8 inches or more, counters become cover strips or termination bars, and the metal-and-shingle logic of step flashing does not apply. A metal or membrane roof meeting a wall takes continuous flashing rather than steps, because the roofing itself is already a continuous sheet. Mixing the two worlds — installing step flashing against a standing-seam panel, or shingle-style lapping on a membrane roof — is a category error that shows up as a leak the first time wind-driven rain crosses the joint.

How the Pieces Work Together

No roof flashing type functions alone at a real intersection. A sidewall run is kickout at the bottom, step flashing the whole way up, counter flashing or siding over the wall legs, and often a headwall flashing at the top where the wall turns. A chimney is apron on the downslope face, steps on both sides, a cricket and counter on the upslope face, and counter finishing all four. A valley feeds into drip edge at the eave; a pipe boot sits on underlayment that runs to the eave. Reading a roof as a connected water-management system — every piece lapping the piece below, every termination discharging somewhere visible — is the fastest way to spot the detail that is wrong before it leaks.

Step Flashing

Step flashing is the workhorse of roof-to-wall flashing: hundreds of small L-shaped metal pieces, one per shingle course, jogging up the wall like a staircase — which is where the name comes from. Each piece lies flat on the roof deck with its roof leg under the shingle above it and its wall leg turned up against the wall sheathing, lapped over the piece below by at least 2 inches. Water running down the wall hits a wall leg, drops onto a roof leg, and is handed shingle-fashion to the next piece down until it exits at the kickout into the gutter. The geometry is the waterproofing; nails and sealant are secondary.

Sizing Step Flashing

Code minimums are modest — 4 inches up the wall and 4 inches onto the deck, with 2 inches of lap — but trade practice runs bigger: 5×7-inch and 10-inch-long pieces cost little more per square foot and forgive imperfect shingle exposure. What must never shrink is the overlap. A piece lapped less than 2 inches onto its neighbor can be jumped by wind-driven rain; a piece that does not reach 4 inches onto the deck can be overrun by meltwater in a heavy thaw.

How Many Pieces? A Worked Count

Step flashing pieces advance one per shingle course along the wall, so the count is the wall length divided by the exposure — with a piece for the starting course at the eave. A 40-foot sidewall under a 5⅝-inch exposure shingle needs 40 × 12 ÷ 5.625 ≈ 86 pieces; the same wall under a 5-inch exposure three-tab needs 40 × 12 ÷ 5 = 96 pieces. In pieces per foot that is about 2.1 at 5⅝ exposure and 2.4 at 5-inch exposure — the quick check numbers roofers use on a ladder. Add a spare 10 percent for cuts at hips, rakes, and odd corners. Count the pieces from the plan before the tear-off: step flashing quantities are easy to get right on paper and miserable to discover short in the middle of a wall.

Installation Rules

• Start at the bottom. The first piece — or the kickout assembly where the wall meets the gutter — goes in before any shingle course above it, so every subsequent piece can lap over the one below.
• Fasten to the deck only. One or two nails through the roof leg into the deck, high enough to be covered by the next shingle. Never nail the wall leg into the wall; the roof and wall move at different rates and a pinned wall leg tears.
• Lap shingle-fashion. Each piece overlaps the previous by at least 2 inches, wall leg up, roof leg flat, water path uninterrupted downhill.
• Keep the wall leg straight and high. The leg stands against the sheathing, not folded over the shingle surface; the next course's shingle and the counter flashing or siding cover it.
• End in a kickout. Every sidewall run terminates in a kickout diverter aimed into the gutter — never behind the siding, never flush with the wall corner.

Step Flashing vs. Continuous Flashing

Continuous (or "one-piece") flashing at a shingled sidewall is a defect: the single long piece cannot accommodate the movement between roof and wall, and one tear along its length leaks the entire wall. InterNACHI and every major manufacturer require step flashing for asphalt shingle sidewalls. Continuous flashing remains correct at metal and membrane roofs, where the roofing itself is a continuous sheet and the wall flashing is a matched continuous piece — and at headwalls, where the apron is a short continuous run over the top course rather than a woven staircase. The distinction is not stylistic; it follows the roofing type and the direction of the joint.

Counter Flashing & Reglets

Counter flashing is the cover that keeps the top edge of a base or step flashing dry. Water running down a masonry wall — through mortar joints, down the chimney face, across a parapet — would find the top edge of any base flashing it met and work behind it within one storm. Counter flashing stops that by presenting a metal lip that stands proud of the wall and overlaps the base flashing below, so wall water lands on metal and is returned to the roof surface. On framed walls the counter role is often played by the siding itself, which must lap over the step flashing's wall leg with a clear gap above the roof surface.

Three Installation Methods

Reglet Details That Matter

The reglet cut is a small masonry operation with outsized consequences. Cut along the mortar joint, not through brick or stone faces; 1 inch deep is the common minimum, 1¼ to 1½ inches preferred for a hem that holds itself in. The counter flashing is bent with a reverse hem at the top so it springs into the slot; lead wedges or stainless fasteners pin it where the fit is loose. The cut is then refilled with a UV-stable sealant — polyurethane or silicone — but the sealant is a secondary barrier: the metal in the joint is the primary. Dissimilar metals are forbidden at the assembly (no aluminum against copper, no unprotected steel in masonry contact), and the counter must overlap the base flashing by a real distance, typically 3 inches or more, so splash and wind cannot climb the gap.

The Failure Mode: Surface Glue

The single most common counter flashing defect is a piece of metal stuck to the chimney face with roof cement and no mechanical embedment. It looks right from the ground; it fails within a few seasons as the sealant dries, cracks, and unbinds from the metal. Water then runs behind the "counter" and down the back of the step flashing into the house. The test is simple: on a masonry chimney, counter flashing must be set into a joint, not glued to a face. On framed walls, the equivalent test is whether the siding truly laps the step flashing's wall leg — caulk smeared along the shingle line instead of real cladding coverage is the same defect wearing different clothes.

Chimney Flashing

Chimney flashing is the most complex assembly on most roofs because the chimney interrupts the roof from eave to ridge and presents four different water problems at once. A complete system has four named pieces: apron (continuous, across the downslope face), step flashing (woven up both sides), cricket or saddle (behind wide chimneys), and counter flashing (embedded in the masonry on all faces). A rubber pipe-boot-style collar around a chimney is never an acceptable substitute — masonry chimneys need the full metal assembly, and the code says so.

The Four-Piece Assembly

The Cricket Decision

A chimney wider than 30 inches across the slope is a dam without a cricket: snow accumulates on the upslope face, meltwater pools at the counter flashing seam, and the joint fails — often seasonally, which makes the leak look intermittent and mysteriously "fixed" in summer. The cricket is built before shingles: two plywood triangles framing a miniature ridge running from the chimney back onto the roof deck, high enough to drain but low enough to stay under the siding or counter line. Its peak and sides take step flashing and a continuous top piece; the whole assembly ties into the chimney counter so there is no bare seam where the cricket meets the masonry. On chimneys under 30 inches in mild climates the cricket may be omitted, but in snow country the 24-inch trade trigger is worth honoring.

Masonry vs. Framed Chimneys

Masonry chimneys take the reglet-and-counter treatment described above; the counter is removable so the base assembly can be inspected and replaced without rebuilding the chimney. Framed chimneys — siteside framed chases finished in stucco, siding, or stone veneer — use a different stack: step flashing at the roof line, a Z-shaped through-wall flashing piece behind the cladding, and a counter or cap flashing above the Z, so the wall's drainage plane and the roof's flashing become one continuous water path. Stone veneer and stucco both require a clear gap between the cladding and the roof surface (typically 2 inches for stucco) so the base flashing can do its work; burying the base flashing in render is a classic built-in leak.

Valley Flashing

Valley flashing lives in the channel where two roof planes meet — the highest-volume water path on most roofs, because every square foot of both adjoining slopes drains into it. A valley carries more water per linear foot than any eave, which is why valley metal is wide (24 inches minimum in most guidance), heavy (16- to 24-gauge for steel), and detailed with zero tolerance for fasteners in the water path. Roof flashing at a valley is either exposed metal (open valley), a cut edge over metal (closed-cut), or fully woven shingles over membrane (woven) — and each style trades appearance against water-handling behavior.

Valley Styles Compared

Open Valley Details

Open valley metal is W-profile or flat with a center rib, 18 to 24 inches wide (24 inches in heavy-debris and steep-snow regions), in 8- to 10-foot lengths lapped shingle-fashion with the upper piece over the lower. It sits on ice-and-water membrane at least 36 inches wide centered in the valley, and it is fastened only along the outer edges — never through the center channel. Shingles are cut back 3 to 4 inches from the centerline on each side and their cut edges sealed to the metal with a compatible sealant. The W rib in the center keeps the water from running laterally under the shingle edges during heavy flow. The result is a valley that can be seen, cleaned, and inspected — which is exactly why it remains the preferred treatment for high-volume valleys.

Closed-Cut Details

The closed-cut valley starts with the same ice-and-water membrane bed, then shingles the dominant slope through the valley without interruption. The upper slope is shingled up to a cut line offset toward its own side of the valley, and the cut edges are sealed. The cut line must fall on solid shingle field — never within an inch or two of the valley center, where water runs. Nail placement is critical: no nails within roughly 6 inches of the valley center, because a nail head in the flow path eventually works its way wet. Done correctly the closed-cut looks like a clean shingle valley and performs well; done carelessly it leaks at the cut line and rots the deck under the dominant slope.

What Codes and Manuals Require

The IRC requires valleys to be either lined with a minimum 36-inch-wide sheet of underlayment (self-adhering polymer-modified bitumen commonly used) or covered with prepared valley flashing; asphalt shingle valleys have their own subsection governing woven and closed-cut treatments. Manufacturer instructions add the details: minimum metal gauge, lap lengths, fastener spacing at the edges, and the ban on roof cement as a primary valley seal. The through-line across all of them is the same: treat the valley as a gutter made of roofing, give it real width, keep fasteners out of the channel, and make sure every shingle edge in the valley laps in the direction water flows.

Kickout Flashing

Kickout flashing is the diverter at the bottom of a roof-to-wall flashing run — the piece that catches the water step flashing has been jogging down the wall and throws it out into the gutter, clear of the wall corner. Without it, the water simply continues past the end of the roof, finds the siding or the wall sheathing at the corner, and runs down inside the wall. The IRC has required a means of diverting water away from the wall at the eave-to-sidewall intersection since the 2009 edition; later editions name it explicitly. Despite that, inspection studies have found the majority of homes checked were missing a proper kickout at one or more sidewall terminations — which makes it both the cheapest and the most consequential piece of roof flashing on the house.

Sizing and Geometry

Installation Sequence at the Kickout

1. Run the wall underlayment and any housewrap down past the roof line before the kickout goes in.
2. Install drip edge and starter course at the eave.
3. Set the kickout so its roof flange lies on the deck (or over the starter), its vertical leg stands against the wall sheathing, and its flare points into the gutter.
4. Fold or slide the wall drainage plane over the kickout's vertical leg — the WRB goes over the flashing, not behind it.
5. Lap the first standard step piece at least 4 inches over the kickout's upper edge.
6. Shingle up the wall normally from there, and cut siding to leave a clear gap above the roof surface.

Purpose-made kickout diverters in thermoplastic or coated metal simplify the shape and come in left- and right-hand versions; a field-bent piece from the same metal as the step flashing works equally well if the flare is real and the laps are correct. What does not work is a folded scrap of step flashing left flat against the wall — that is a decoration, not a diverter. Whatever cladding finishes the wall, keep it clear of the roof surface: siding should end at least 1 inch above the shingles — 2 inches for fiber cement and other absorptive materials — with the housewrap lapped over the step and kickout flashing behind it so every miss that gets past the cladding still lands on a drainage plane, not on sheathing.

The Hidden-Wall-Rot Problem

The reason kickout flashing gets its own section — and its own code clause — is the scale of the damage its absence causes. Water leaving a sidewall at the eave corner without a diverter tracks behind the siding, wets the sheathing and the bottom plate, and often follows the foundation line into the wall cavity. Because the exterior looks fine, the rot can run for years before soft siding or interior staining reveals it; by then the repair includes cladding removal, sheathing and framing replacement, and sometimes structural work. Modern composite sidings and rainscreen details can hide the wetting even longer by allowing drying that masks saturation. The kickout costs almost nothing during a re-roof and is nearly impossible to add correctly after the siding is finished — which is why it belongs in the first installation pass, not the punch list.

Drip Edge & Roof Edges

Drip edge is the continuous formed-metal profile that finishes the roof at the eave and the rake. At the eave it sits directly on the deck, under the underlayment, with its flange extending into the gutter and its drip leg hanging just off the fascia so water breaks free of the metal instead of wicking back onto the wood. At the rake it goes over the underlayment, because water there runs along the edge rather than onto it. The code requires drip edge at eaves and, in recent editions, at rakes as well — a recognition that wind-driven rain at the rake was a long-standing blind spot.

Eave vs. Rake: The Sequence Flip

Profiles come in three standard shapes — Type C (classic L), Type D (T-style with a wider flange), and Type F (extended hem) — chosen to match the gutter and fascia detail. Laps are 2 to 3 inches, shingle-fashion, with the upper piece over the lower and a nail placed back from the lap joint so the fastener is not exposed at the seam. On long eaves, start at a corner, keep the drip leg about ⅜ to ½ inch off the fascia to break the water film, and let the metal run the full length without pinching it tight against the wood. Like step flashing and valley metal, drip edge is replaced at every re-roof — it comes up with the old shingles and should never be reused after being pried off.

Pipe Boots & Skylights

Penetrations — plumbing vents, exhaust stacks, condensate lines, skylights — are the roof flashing details most homeowners actually see, and among the most common sources of calls. A pipe boot is a prefabricated collar: an aluminum or steel base flange that slides under the upslope shingles and over the downslope ones, with a flexible neoprene or EPDM cone that seals around the pipe. Skylights take a manufacturer flashing kit — head piece first, step pieces down the sides, sill last — matched to both the skylight curb and the roof covering.

Pipe Boot Rules

• Slide the boot under the shingle courses above and over the courses below, so water runs from shingle to boot to shingle without a back lap.
• Fasten under the shingle flanges with nails or screws placed at least 2 inches from the pipe and covered by sealant or the next course.
• Chamfer or slightly compress the pipe opening so the rubber grips rather than gaps — the cone should be snug, not stretched.
• On very steep slopes, use a pitch-matched flashing or add a small cricket upslope of a large stack.
• Expect the rubber to be the weak link: UV and thermal cycling give neoprene boots a 10- to 20-year life, far shorter than the shingles around them. Reseal or replace at every inspection; a cracked cone is a scheduled leak.

Skylight Kits

A skylight flashing kit is engineered for one curb size and one roof type — select the kit that matches both. Installation runs head to sill: the upslope head flashing first with its upper edge under the shingles, then the side step pieces lapping over the head piece and each other, then the sill piece last so its joints all face downhill. Ice-and-water membrane runs up the curb under the kit on any roof that sees ice dams. The classic skylight leak is not the curb metal — it is the shingle edge at the lower corners, where a lazy cut and missing sealant lets water sidestep the sill piece. Cut carefully, seal the cut edges, and the kit does the rest.

Materials & Gauges

Roof flashing materials are selected for three properties: corrosion resistance, formability (the metal must bend cleanly without cracking), and galvanic compatibility with everything it touches. The common choices span a wide range of cost and life, and the wrong pairing — aluminum against copper, say, or bare steel against treated lumber — can destroy a correct detail in a few seasons.

Galvanic Compatibility in One Paragraph

When two dissimilar metals meet in the presence of electrolyte — rainwater, condensation, masonry moisture — the more reactive metal corrodes at the joint. The practical ranking for roof flashing: copper is the noble metal and eats aluminum, galvanized steel, and plain steel if allowed to touch them; stainless sits near copper; aluminum and galvanized are the sacrificial end. The rules follow directly: never lay copper flashing against aluminum or galvanized; use copper or stainless fasteners in copper; isolate aluminum from masonry and pressure-treated wood with a coating, membrane, or paint; and when in doubt, match metals across the whole assembly — copper steps with copper counter, aluminum with aluminum. A single mismatched fastener can bleed rust streaks across a valley and start a pit that outlives the shingle warranty.

Installation Sequence

Roof flashing installation is a sequence problem more than a product problem: each piece must be in place before the layer that covers it, and every lap must face the direction water travels. The sequence below is the whole-roof version for an asphalt shingle re-roof with walls, valleys, a chimney, and penetrations. Local conditions — steep pitch, ice dams, metal roofing — adjust the details but not the fundamental progression from deck outward, eave upward.

1. Inspect and repair the deck. Replace soft or delaminated sheathing; flashing installed on a rotten deck is flashing installed on a future leak.
2. Install ice-and-water membrane at eaves (extending at least 24 in inside the warm wall line), in valleys (36 in wide, centered), and up any wall that meets the roof in snow country.
3. Lay eave drip edge directly on the deck, before the field underlayment, lapped shingle-fashion into the gutter.
4. Run the field underlayment over the eave drip edge, lapped horizontally and vertically so water always laps onto the course below.
5. Install valley flashing — open metal on its membrane bed, or prepare the membrane for a closed-cut — before any shingles that will abut it.
6. Install kickout flashing at the bottom of every sidewall, tied into the wall drainage plane.
7. Lay starter strip along eaves and rakes, over the drip edges, with the adhesive line at the edge.
8. Shingle the field from the eave up, weaving step flashing into every sidewall course as the wall is reached — one piece per course, 2-inch laps, deck-only fastening.
9. Install apron and headwall flashing where the roof meets upslope walls, lapped over the top course and under the counter or siding.
10. Install rake drip edge over the underlayment at the rakes as the rake shingles go on.
11. Flash penetrations — pipe boots and skylight kits — as the field shingles reach them, always shingle-fashion.
12. Flash the chimney: apron, steps, cricket if required, then counter flashing into the reglets last, after the field around the chimney is complete.
13. Finish with counter flashing and siding integration: seal reglets, confirm siding laps over every wall leg with the required gap, and walk every termination looking for a nail in the water path.
14. Inspect from above and below: attic walk for light at joints, roof walk for sealant beads where metal meets metal, and a hose test on any detail that looks doubtful.

The rule that governs the whole sequence: metal goes under the course that sheds onto it, and over the course that sheds onto the metal. When a detail resists that logic on the ladder, the detail is wrong — stop and re-sequence rather than trusting a bead of sealant to resolve it.

Leak-to-Feature Map

Where an interior stain appears — relative to the roof feature above it — is the fastest diagnosis tool available without tearing anything open. The map below matches common stain locations to the roof flashing detail most likely responsible. Stains migrate along framing before they drip, so trace uphill along rafters and sheathing rather than trusting the ceiling point directly.

Common Mistakes

Most roof flashing failures trace to a short list of repeated errors. Review this table against any design, any bid, and any roof you are about to open up.

Repair Cost Ranges

Roof flashing repair pricing follows access and scope more than material cost. The ranges below are typical United States figures for common jobs; steep roofs, multi-story access, masonry cutting for reglets, and cricket construction push any of them higher. Materials alone are a small fraction of the total — labor and access dominate.

Two pricing truths are worth carrying into any conversation with a bidder. First, a "reseal" quote on chimney flashing is almost always a temporary measure — if the counter is surface-mounted or the cricket is missing, sealing defers the failure for seasons, not decades. Second, bid comparisons only work when the scope is named: new step flashing each course, new counter into a reglet, cricket included or not, and kickout at every termination. A cheaper number that skips those items is not the same job at a better price; it is a different job.

Frequently Asked Questions

References